Scenario Guide · NH & Maine

Camp to Year-Round: The Winter-Proof Order of Operations for NH & Maine Seasonal Homes

Pick the foundation your camp sits on. The order of work changes with it.

By Smooth Construction Services·October 2026·North Shore MA · Southern NH · Southern ME
The 60-second answer A summer camp becomes a winter home from the ground up: control the foundation and plumbing first, then air seal, then insulate walls and roof. And check with your town before you start. Year-round conversions often trigger code, septic and permit requirements that seasonal use never did.

Around Lake Winnipesaukee, Wolfeboro and Moultonborough, and along the coast from York to Freeport, more seasonal places are becoming full-time homes. Most were built for July, not January. Typical camps have thin or missing wall insulation, open crawl spaces or pier foundations, and plumbing that was meant to be drained every fall.

Before anything else: call your town. In New Hampshire, the state sets minimum standards through the residential building code, but towns can add stricter local rules, and conversions may involve septic, zoning and shoreland approvals. Maine towns have their own requirements too.

Pick your camp

A. It sits on piers or posts (open underneath)
  1. Enclose or insulate the floor. Either skirt and insulate the perimeter, or insulate and air-seal the floor itself with a durable covering underneath against wind and critters.
  2. Move or protect the plumbing. Pipes that run through an open crawl space are the first thing to freeze.
  3. Air seal the floor, walls and ceiling, then insulate the walls and roof.
B. It has a dirt or stone crawl space
  1. Control ground moisture with a sealed vapor barrier over the dirt.
  2. Choose a strategy: insulate the crawl-space walls and rim joists (bringing the space inside, which is often best when pipes run there) or insulate the floor above. Don't do half of each.
  3. Close the vents only when the space is sealed and conditioned as part of the plan.
  4. Then air seal and insulate the walls and roof.
C. It already has a full basement
  1. Fix water first. Gutters, grading and any leaks. Insulation won't stop water.
  2. Insulate the rim joists and foundation walls. Closed-cell foam at the rim is common because it air-seals and limits moisture movement. Exposed foam needs the barrier the code requires.
  3. Then work on the attic: air seal first, then insulate.

Then the shell, in this order

  1. Air seal the attic floor and top plates. This is the biggest and cheapest win, and it prevents ice dams.
  2. Insulate the roof or attic. ENERGY STAR guidance for our climate zones is about R-49 to R-60 in attics.
  3. Fill the walls. Thin 2x4 camp walls often take dense-pack cellulose or spray foam, depending on whether the interior finish stays or goes.
  4. Finish the interior. Drywall or blueboard and veneer plaster, closing up once insulation passes inspection.
Myth: "We'll just run the heat higher."
Reality: An uninsulated floor and open crawl space mean frozen pipes no matter where the thermostat sits, and many insurers set minimum-heat rules for unoccupied homes. Build the envelope first.

Seasonal-use watch-outs

  • Empty for weeks? Plan for heat or drainage of every pipe in unconditioned space.
  • Coastal exposure: wind-driven rain finds gaps, so air sealing matters even more on the water.
  • Moisture when closed up: sealed crawl spaces need a plan for humidity control.

Smooth works throughout Southern New Hampshire, including the Lakes Region up to Moultonborough, and Southern Maine up through Freeport. We'll walk the property, look underneath, and give you an order of work that fits your camp.

Quick answers

Do I need a permit to convert a seasonal camp to year-round in NH?

Often, yes. New Hampshire sets minimum building standards, but towns can add stricter rules, and conversions can involve septic, zoning and shoreland approvals. Check with your town first.

Should I insulate the crawl space walls or the floor above?

Either can work, but pick one. Insulating and sealing the crawl-space walls brings pipes inside the warm envelope; insulating the floor leaves the crawl space cold. Don't do half of each.

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